Navigating to Stubnerkogel
As it was my first day, I decided to head over to the Stubnerkogel part of the resort with a simple plan: go further out, then work my way back through the pistes and lifts, ending the day with a run back to my car.
Getting to Stubnerkogel required a lot of cat tracks – thin and flat in sections, which was disappointing. Upon reaching the Angertal base area, I jumped on a quad lift to start the journey up Stubnerkogel. This involved another cat track, a T-bar, yet another cat track, and finally the Stubnerkogel gondola. As any keen skier with a day to explore will understand, I was on a mission.
Finally reaching the gondola, I headed to the top expecting some actual piste skiing. Instead, it was another long, drawn-out cat track to reach the main red piste. That's a lot of horizontal travel.
Stubnerkogel: Wind-Affected but Workable
Once I finally got onto proper terrain, the runs rode reasonably well. The snow was wind-affected, but in a good way. The B19 piste offered great views back across to the Schlossalm section, though it was painfully clear this resort desperately needs fresh snow. They're doing what they can with limited resources, but a solid 50cm would completely turn things around.
Key runs on Stubnerkogel:
- B19 red piste: Decent riding with good views across the valley
- B20 black: Really enjoyable run that got the legs working properly
- B18 red: Nice piste down the main face of Stubnerkogel – top section was dicey and icy, but the lower half rode really well
After a few more laps and chairs on Stubnerkogel, I decided to head back to the Schlossalm part of the resort – and I'm so glad I did.
Schlossalm: Where Things Improved
The snow was riding much cleaner on Schlossalm. No idea why, but it just had more grip, more depth, and noticeably less ice on the main runs compared to Stubnerkogel.
I headed straight to the highest part of the resort, working on the assumption that higher elevation would mean better snow quality. I was right. The number 8 chair reaches the highest point of Schlossalm mountain – a cute old-school double chair with two pistes running under it, providing access to the H1 piste.
The H5 pistes rode incredibly well and delivered some of the most fun I had all day, prompting several laps.
Covering the Frontside
To ensure I covered as much terrain as possible, I headed over to the frontside of Schlossalm and rode some of the beginner and intermediate pistes. The reds rode well, but many of the blues were starting to mogul out from beginners sliding awkwardly down them. This creates a vicious cycle as more intermediate skiers try to navigate the chaos their predecessors created.
I just let my skis take me on a journey, and before I knew it, I was back at the base.
Salzburg's Longest Piste: The 10.5km Challenge
What I really wanted to do was one lap of what the signage at the top promotes as "the Longest Piste in Salzburg" – a 10.5km run. Back on the Schlossalmbahn, up to the six-person chair, then over to the double chair. Fifteen minutes of lift riding later, I was at the top and ready to tackle this long cruiser.
It rode quite nicely, though I suspect that's because not many people bother with it. Whether it's the three lifts required to access it or the commitment to skiing 10.5km, the crowds stayed away – which suited me fine. The upper section rode perfectly.
Around halfway down, it connects with the rest of the main intermediate runs, then it's a combination of ice fields and moguls all the way to the bottom.
The Value Question
Did SkiGastein live up to what I'd built it up to in my head? Maybe not. Was I shocked that I paid €70 for a four-hour pass? Absolutely. A day ticket was €75, so I effectively paid €70 to ski for four hours. I didn't come all the way to Europe to lose sleep over €5, but it's hard to call that good value.
If it had been a bluebird or even a sunny day, my opinion might have been swayed. I also wonder whether better weather would have changed the snow conditions – perhaps less ice and more comfortable snow to work with.
Final Thoughts
I'm off to explore some of the other Ski Amadé resorts over the next few days. Maybe I'll make my way back to SkiGastein, but for now, I'm not rushing back.
The resort is doing what it can with challenging conditions, but the lack of fresh snow over recent weeks has left its mark. Higher elevation terrain on Schlossalm offered the best riding, while the extensive cat tracks to access Stubnerkogel felt tedious given the mixed conditions on arrival.
If you're heading to the eastern Alps this season, manage your expectations and perhaps wait for a decent snow dump before committing to a visit.
